Tuesday, January 5, 2016

THAILAND - Through Issan

MAP OF MY ROUTE HERE & HERE
NOTE; At the time of writing the exchange rate was 35 baht to $1
LIST OF CONTENTS

07/09/15 – Phibun Mangsahan – Ubon Ratchathani – 45km – Medium
09/09/15 – Ubon Ratchathani to Amnat Charoen – 75km – Easy
10/09/15 – Amnat Charoen to Mukdahan – 91km – Easy
Crossing Phu Pha Yon National Park – Lessons learned
13/09/15 – Mukdahan to Dong Luang – 50km (approx) – Easy
14/09/15 – Dong Luang to That Phanom – 48km (approx) – Medium
15/09/15 – That Phanom to Tao Ngoi – 115km (approx) – Medium/difficult
16/09/15 – Tao Ngoi to Sakon Nakhon – 20km – Easy
18/09/15 – Sakon to Somdet – 88km – Medium
19/09/15 – Somdet to Wang Sam Mo – 90km (approx) – Medium
20/09/15 – Wang Sam Mo to Kumphawapi – 55km – Medium
21/09/15 – Kumphawapi to Udon Thani – 42km – Easy
24/09/15 – Udon Thani to Nong Khai – 55km – Easy
27/09/15 – Nong Khai to Vientiane – 26km – Easy
CONCLUSIONS & OVERALL COSTS

07/09/15 – Phibun Mangsahan to Ubon Ratchathani – 45km – Medium

Not much to report; a nice short cycle on a pleasant, if busy road with lots of trees & green foliage by the roadside. It was another day of constant undulations some fairly prolonged which found me rattling up & down the gears.
I avoided the city centre by taking road 231 around the city outskirts & headed straight for Fundee Mansions, 18 Chayangkul 38, T Naimuang & a $10 A/C room. It’s close to some food stalls & a Big C supermarket so my food & beer is taken care of.

After 4 weeks in Laos it’s great to be back to Thai food once again.

09/09/15 – Ubon Ratchathani to Amnat Charoen – 75km – Easy

It was a late start as I waited out a lightning storm. There followed an easy cycle ride over flat roads, a lovely change from the undulating roads I’ve become used to lately. Sticking with the main highway it proved to be a fairly boring road lacking any dramatic scenery but it just felt good to be moving & I really enjoyed today’s ride.
Arriving in Amnat Charoen early afternoon, I had a good look around & there’s lots of accommodation options although many are hidden away in the backstreets. I opted for Prince Hotel & for $10 got a big, well furnished A/C room.
Heading out for some beer at night I stumbled on a lovely little night market & enjoyed a Penang curry with rice before picking up some snacks for the room. Later I fell into conversation with a Cambodian from Sisophon who’s been married & living in Thailand for 15 years. He kept insisting on buying me beers & was desperately keen to talk about his homeland; I suspect despite his denial he feels more than a little homesick.
Amnat Charoen’s certainly not the prettiest town in Thailand but it’s another friendly wee town & has been an extremely pleasant stopover.

10/09/15 – Amnat Charoen to Mukdahan – 91km –Easy

I had a good night’s sleep in the Prince Hotel helped by the excess of beer my Cambodian friend bought me last night. A stop at the Big C food court for some breakfast meant I wasn’t fully underway until 10am.
It was another very enjoyable days cycling over a primarily flat road. The mornings scenery was bland & boring but improved in the afternoon as the road skirted Phu Sa Dok Bua National park,  the roadside foliage became thicker & more vibrant, trees began to dominate the foreground & forest clad hills came into view.
I stuck to the main road (road 212) for a variety of reasons although I’m sure the road which cuts through the National Park would be far more scenic & enjoyable, plus it knocks 7 or 8km off the overall journey.
Despite time spent sheltering from heavy rainstorms I still arrived in Mukdahan at 4pm & headed straight to Kim Jek Sin Hotel for a nice big, if well worn $7 fan room. The staff are as surly & uncommunicative as ever but who cares when I’ve got a decent serviceable $7 room.
Absolutely starving I had a quick shower before heading to a rice soup vendor for rice soup with pretty much everything in it (pork, prawns, liver, chicken, quails eggs, mushroom, ginger etc, etc) for $1.20 before picking up some laab phet & sticky rice to enjoy with my beers later.
It’s been a really enjoyable days cycling despite being on a main, 4 lane highway & it’s great to be back in friendly, laid back Mukdahan once again. It’s nice when you know a town & don’t have to waste time looking around for a budget room or where to get good food, especially after a 90km cycle.  

CROSSING PHU PHA YON NATIONAL PARK – LESSONS LEARNED

In the following few days I was to learn traveling from Mukdahan or That Phanom via road 2287 which cuts through Phu Pha Yon National Park then stopping off in Dong Luang was a sensible option. It’s the last guesthouse before Tao Ngoi (around 18km from Sakhon Nakhon) & has a Tesco Lotus for food & cold beer.
It makes for a short 1st day (45 to 50km) but otherwise you’re looking at a tough 110 to 120km until Tao Ngoi. The hotel indicated on Google Maps at the junction of roads 2287 & 3008 doesn’t exist. There is one resort signposted about 10km before Tao Ngoi but there’s absolutely no services in the area.
So, ideally 45 to 50km to Dong Luang, then around 70km to Tao Ngoi or push on the final (flat) 18km to Sakhon Nakhon.

13/09/15 Mukdahan to Dong Luang – 50km (approx) – Easy
Map of today's route - HERE
A nice days cycling began with breakfast at the Big C food court before setting out along highway 212. Despite being a 4 lane highway it was a pleasant road to cycle with lots of open green countryside, traditional stilted wooden houses & mature trees lining the roadside. Traffic was light enough for me to relax & enjoy the views.
Passing Ban Samkha brought back bittersweet memories of almost marrying a local lass & I was surprised to see 3 basic guesthouses & one fancy resort in town. Turning onto road 3008, straight away the pace of life changed with a quiet 2 lane road which I most often had to myself. Wonderfully tranquil countryside with insects chirping, birds singing & butterflies dancing in front of my face. It was a very pleasant ride over an undulating road with one 100 to 150 meter climb to get over.
My plan was to stop near the junction of roads 3008 & 2287 (near Wat Pho Si Kaeo) where Google Maps indicated a small town with a guesthouse or “resort”. The accommodation just doesn’t exist & taking a wrong turn I ended up cycling 15km up road 2287. Spotting a guesthouse as I came into Dong Luang & then a Tesco Lotus I decided to call it a day & regroup for a great days cycling tomorrow (or so I thought at the time).
A Thai sign only & no English spoken but I was happy with my $8.50 fan cooled bungalow with hot shower (no fridge or Wi-Fi) & a ran by a really nice, friendly elderly couple. It’s an incredibly dull village with no restaurants & no food stalls. I eventually just got a tin of tuna, bread & junk food from the Tesco Lotus to tide me over. Google Maps has just gone completely blank on me & all I get is a blank screen. I’ve been all around the village trying to pick up an unsecured wi-fi signal & my mobile date just won’t work. It means shelving tomorrow’s plans to cycle through Phu Phan National park & heading to a big town where I’ll get decent wi-fi & can re-download Google Maps.
NOTE; - My wrong turn North onto road 2287 & hence into Dong Luang today proved to be fortuitous. If I’d carried on along 2287 west & into the National Park as I intended, I would have discovered there was absolutely no accommodation for the next 70km until Tao Ngoi.

 14/09/15 – Dong Luang to That Phanom – 48km (approx) –Medium

I was tempted to push on through Phu Phan National Park despite having no maps but knew my sense of direction (or rather lack of) would let me down. The only sensible option was to head for a big town, good internet & get Google Maps sorted.
An initial 15km cycle up road 2104 was very pleasant with lots of green scenery & forest lining the roadside. It was another road with severe undulations and one prolonged climb up to 100 meters or so, there was no shoulder but most of the time I had the road to myself. It was a peaceful, tranquil morning’s cycle although I couldn’t help gazing at the rolling hills of Phu Phan which I should have been cycling through.
Turning onto road 223 was a shock to the system as I was suddenly back to a fast moving 4 lane highway. Cycling into Na Kae I stopped for some lunch & decided my plan to cycle to Sakhon Nakhon was a bit foolish when That Phanom was only 25km away. It was a fairly bland, boring 25km but over soon enough & I soon found myself at Pin Place Hotel with an $11.50 A/C room.
With a decent internet connection I found Google Maps soon fixed itself freeing up my afternoon to laze around That Phanom.

15/09/15 – That Phanom – Tao Ngoi – 115km (approx) – Medium/difficult
MAP of today's route - HERE
It’s been a good, if strenuous days cycling & extremely frustrating knowing I’m in beautiful countryside yet constant rain obscures the views.
Setting out into a strong headwind found me toiling even on road 223’s flat surface, I’d no intention of doing 115km today & thought I’d find someplace to stopover on route so wasn’t particularly worried as the winds slowed me considerably. Turning onto road 2014 it was back to tranquil roads with pleasant green scenery. A 100 meter climb before freewheeling downhill & back into Dong Luang. Stopping for lunch proved to be a good move & at the time I didn’t realize it would be my last meal before Tao Ngoi. Thereafter there wasn’t much food services other than the occasional noodle soup restaurant.
All day it’s been constant rain, whether absolutely bucketing down or just annoying drizzle & I’ve had little opportunity to expose my camera. Pushing on down road 2104 I passed Wat Pho Si Kaeo & confirmed the resort shown on Google Maps DOESN’T EXIST. Indeed the resort in Dong Luang was the last accommodation before Tao Ngoi.
I’m sure in clear weather the next 50 to 60km would have been superb cycling as the road passed between the hills of Phu Pha Yon National Park, thick forest lining the roadside, timeless villages coming & going, green vegetation all around & the sounds of the jungle as a constant soundtrack. However today the lack of vision caused by constant rain & the hills shrouded in a blanket of mist proved frustrating & I certainly didn’t see this route at its best.
I’d been looking out for accommodation all afternoon but there just weren’t any options, indeed few services to speak of all day. Around 4pm I was beginning to weary, the mornings headwinds & constant undulations beginning to take their toll. Stopping to buy some water & enquiring about the nearest room I was disheartened to hear the closest was 30km away in Tao Ngoi.
I was also getting pretty damn hungry & it’s always a quandary in such situations; do I use up valuable daylight time & stop for a hot meal or fight the hunger & push on making the most of the remaining light. Usually I compromise & wolf down a packet of biscuits as indeed I did today.
5pm, I arrived at the turnoff to road 2339 & really didn’t need another 300 meter climb. It seemed to be on an extremely steep gradient but perhaps that was just my weary legs. Somehow I got over it & pushed on to Tao Ngoi arriving just as darkness was settling in at 6.30pm.
It was great to spot a Tesco Lotus & 7’11’ & with no energy to search for a room I stopped at the police station & enquired within. A friendly young cop directed me to (the imaginatively named) Tao Ngoi Resort, $6 for a nice fan room, hot shower, decent Wi-Fi & really friendly owner (no English spoken). Out of habit I did find myself checking the mattress, water taps, and fan before thinking – what on earth are you doing? Its 7pm, it’s dark, you’re exhausted, there are no other options nearby & you’re going to take this room whatever!!
There’s probably a night market in town with good food & perhaps some restaurants but I was too exhausted to look & just cycled to the 7’11’ for some junk food & beers for the room. 


16/09/15 – Tao Ngoi to Sakhon Nakhon – 20km – Easy

It’s been a great day which I kicked off with an extremely slow start to the day & then a relaxed cycle to Sakhon. The initial 10km on road 2358 was an extremely tranquil, peaceful cycle but turning onto road 223 for the final 8km it was back to a fast moving 4 lane highway.
 I’d plotted a course to the Big C supermarket & from there began a search for accommodation. Almost immediately I stumbled upon Kanjana Mansion (1st right after MJ the Majestic Hotel) & for $10 have a lovely A/C room & Al Jazera on TV.
I spent the afternoon lazing around my room & in the early evening whilst heading for the Big C walked right into a wonderful Thai night market. All my favorites were there & I ended up making a bit of a pig of myself.
With washing machines in my hotel foyer I threw all my laundry in one & decided I’m having a day off to explore Sakhon tomorrow.
17/09/15; Kanjana Mansion turned out to a great place to stay, non intrusive but friendly as hell whenever I needed anything & Sakhon was a great place to rest up with a very earthy feel to it.

18/09/15 – Sakon Nakhon to Somdet – 88km – Medium
MAP of today's journey - HERE
I was fairly disappointed today when road 213 proved to be a lot busier than I was expecting & as a main artery between Sakon & Kalasin the heavy traffic detracted from my overall enjoyment especially as some sections, particularly the hills, were extremely scenic.
Getting out of Sakon meant cycling along a busy highway & after 10km I was confronted with a 300 meter climb as the road wound its way up a hillside. With thick jungle all around & very modest gradients it was an enjoyable & fairly easy climb up followed by a superb freewheel downhill the road twisting & turning all the way down.
All day there’s been little or no shoulder & regular convoys of cars or trucks passing did get somewhat oppressive. There were lots of “resorts” on route today but none with any services in the vicinity. I should have cut off onto an unnumbered road which circumnavigates the Northeast side of Nam Phung Lake & got away from the traffic. Instead I continued on road 213 & it soon became a bit mundane & hard to enjoy with relatively heavy traffic & a constantly, sometimes severely, undulating road.
Stopping in Sang Ko I had some lunch & replenished my water, a timely stop as almost immediately thereafter a 500 meter climb began. Once again it was on a very modest gradient & surrounded by wonderful thick jungle it was an easy & very enjoyable climb. Insect choirs, birdsong, monkeys whooping & butterflies flirting around enhanced the experience & I’d really enjoy it for a while until another convoy of vehicles would arrive & shatter the idyll.
With such gentle gradients my freewheel downhill lasted a wonderful 10km twisting & turning down beautiful jungle lined roads. It really was a fantastic finish to my venture into Phu Phan National Park. A final 15km cycle through pleasant lowland scenery found me arriving in Somdet.
I couldn’t be bothered searching all over town for a room & when I spotted a hotel next to a 7’11’ & with a night market setting up nearby I took one of their rooms. $10 for an A/c room with fridge & hot shower is OK but it’s all a bit worn & I’m sure there’s better value if I’d had the energy to look around. Indeed returning to my room at night I had to go on a cockroach killing spree, something I rarely have to do in Thai hotels nowadays.
Wandering out to the night market in the evening I was delighted to find most stalls had tables & chairs such that I could sit down, enjoy my meal & beers & do some people watching. A chicken green curry with rice ($1.50) was superb as was 2 banana pancakes (60 cents each).

It’s been a good days cycling despite traffic being heavier than I’d expected & I’ve enjoyed a wonderful night in Somdet.

 19/09/15 – Somdet to Wang Sam Mo – 90km (approx) – Medium
Click HERE for a very approximate map of today's journey although with so many dead ends & wrong turns I often lost track of where I was. 
It’s been a great days cycling albeit made much more difficult largely due to my complete lack of navigational skills. It should have been a 55 to 60km route except for my constant wrong turns & having to backtrack often.
I began the day by cycling along road 2041 but as happened yesterday, lovely scenery was spoiled by being on a 2 lane road with heavy traffic & absolutely no shoulder. I needed all my concentration on keeping tight to the inside & rarely got my head up to enjoy the vivid green scenery.
It wasn’t long before I decided to cut off onto quieter rural roads & initially it was extremely pleasant cycling as I left the traffic behind & enjoyed peaceful, tranquil surroundings. Birdsong & insect choirs replaced the sounds of fast moving traffic with butterflies & dragon flies flirting around me. Passing through scenic farmland & idyllic villages with lots of shouts of “sawatdii” or “pay nai”, bicycles & the occasional motorbike replaced cars as the local means of transportation.
The road surface steadily deteriorated as the day wore on until finally I found myself cycling along rutted tracks. It was slow going & bone jarring but with majestic trees lining the route, green rice fields & following a river with huge nets suspended on wooden frames & lone fishermen in canoes it was an extremely pleasant & picturesque ride.
According to Google Maps I had to cross the river but despite wasting a lot of time & energy cycling up & down the bank I couldn’t find any way across. I even asked a couple of fishermen if they could canoe me across only to be met with a shake of the head & “mai daay khrap”.
Eventually I gave up & tried to find a route north to road 227 but kept finding myself on dead ends or on roads swinging off in completely the wrong direction. I wasn’t particularly concerned as all the time it was wonderful cycling through lovely tranquil countryside.
Finally though I decided if I was to make Wang Sam Mo by nightfall I had to stop pissing around & backtrack east to find road 227. Despite being a great days cycling it was a relief to finally get back to road 227 which was actually another lovely road to cycle with light traffic, trees lining the roadside, vegetable plantations & rice fields stretching to the distant hills. Severe undulations sapped the last of my energy though & I was glad to see Wang Sam Mo getting ever closer.
4pm I arrived pretty worn out & absolutely famished. I should have spent more time looking for a room as Chi & Chin Garden Resort isn’t particularly good value with an A/C room with no fridge for $11.50. There are a lot of other options on the way into town, although nothing that I spotted in the town centre.
At night I had a cycle into town & found a lovely restaurant 2 doors down from the 7’11’. A friendly place with a user friendly picture menu & good affordable food, indeed the krapaw muu (pork, basil & chili) was the best I’ve ever had (& I eat a lot of krapaw muu).
It really has been a great days cycling & if I’d found a better value room to rest up in it would be close to the perfect day.

20/09/15 – Wang Sam Mo to Kumphawapi – 55km – Medium

It’s been another lovely days cycling with very pleasant green scenery all route. There wasn’t much food services & I cycled a good few km’s on an empty stomach, whether that’s typical of this route or because it’s a Sunday I don’t know.
Traffic was light enough that the lack of any shoulder wasn’t a worry, although on occasion a convoy of vehicles would pass shaking me out of my daydreams & find me clinging to the inside of the road. Despite the short distance covered severe undulations pushed this into the medium difficulty.
I could have pushed on to Udon Thani but fancied one last night in a small Thai town with thoughts of a peaceful afternoon lounging around in a nice room & then finding a night market & enjoying good Thai food & a few beer. “The best laid plans of mice & men aft gang astray” as a fellow countryman once put it & I spent more than 2 hours searching the town & it’s outskirts for an affordable room, finally settling for a $10  A/C room about 1km outside of town. It’s well worn & not good value but I was just happy to find something affordable by this stage.
Thoughts of cycling into town at night along a dark, busy highway weren’t appealing & I just loaded the fridge with some food & beer from the local Tesco Lotus before darkness set in.

21/09/15 – Kumphawapi to Udon Thani – 42km – Easy

I should have used some back roads today as the main highways weren’t particularly pleasant to cycle especially highway 2 where I had a couple of near misses as a broken, potholed shoulder forced me out onto the highway.
Still it was a short days cycling & arriving in Udon Thani my first stop was Central Plaza food court for a wonderful lunch. Torn between a basic $8.50 fan room at Sritrakarn Hotel or a nice $11.50 A/C room at Jai Hotel, Jai’s A/C, fridge & hot shower won out in the end.
Every time I visit Udon Thani more & more wonderful night markets have sprung up, especially on the streets leading to the train station. I’m looking forward to a day off tomorrow, good food & restocking some kit before heading for Laos.

24/09/15 – Udon Thani to Nong Khai – 55km – Easy

As always I really enjoyed my stopover in Udon Thani & with superb food, wonderfully friendly locals, pleasant local parks I once again found myself understanding why so many expats relocate here.
Today’s cycle was a boring, instantly forgettable ride up highway 2. With a wide shoulder it was a safe unoppressive ride but still it was a featureless, fast moving 4 lane highway.
Arriving in Nong Khai I headed straight to Pikul Apartment for an $11.50 fan room with fridge & hot shower. It’s not really good value for a fan room but I do feel comfortable here.
NOTE;- I’ve brushed over my time in Udon Thani & Nong Khai & the journey between as I’ve already covered these places on 07 to 09/08/15 & recorded details HERE

27/09/15 – Nong Khai to Vientiane – 26km – Easy


A repeat of my jouney recorded 14/08/15 & contained in above link. I don’t really feel like another day in Vientiane & now at 20.00 I’m thinking of packing & heading off tomorrow.

CONCLUSIONS & OVERALL COSTS

I’m sure there’s much better & far more scenic routes to cycle in Thailand but my primary purpose was to get to Nong Khai & begin a tour of Northern Laos. That said cycling anywhere in Thailand nowadays is an absolute joy & as a cyclist your treat like a VIP. There were extremely scenic legs, especially through National Parks or cutting off onto tranquil rural roads. Add in absolutely wonderful food, friendly helpful locals & affordable accommodation & I can understand why Thailand is many peoples favorite country to cycle in.

I spent $484 in 21 days i.e. $23.05/day. Very approximately my daily expenses were;-

Accommodation - $10
Food - $5
Beer - $7
Miscellaneous - $1

NOTE; I had no visa cost & brought sufficient cigarettes from Laos thereby saving significant expense. 

Wednesday, December 23, 2015

Southern Laos including the Thakhek Loop

Map of my journey - HERE
LIST OF CONTENTS

16/08/15 – Vientiane to Hin Hoeup – 95km – Easy/Medium
17/08/15 – Hin Hoeup to Vang Vieng – 63km- Medium
19/08/15 – Vang Vieng to Phon Hong – 86km – Medium
20/08/15 – Phon Hong to Vientiane – 72 km- Easy/Medium
22/08/15 – Vientiane to Thabok – 93km – Easy
23/08/15 – Thabok to Pak Kading – 95km – Easy
24/08/15 – Pak Kading to Vieng Kham – 53km – Easy
25/08/15 – Vieng Kham to Na Hin – 43km – Difficult
26/08/15 – Na Hin to Lak Sao – 56km – Difficult
27/08/15 – Lak Sao to Mahaxay – 105km – Medium/Difficult
28/08/15 – Mahaxay to Thakhek – 40km – Easy
30/08/15 – Thakhek to Savannaket – 125km (approx) – Medium
01/09/15 – Savannaket to Somboon – 75km – Medium
02/09/15 – Somboon to Pakse – 85km + 85km by bus – Medium
05/09/15 – Pakse
06/09/15 – Pakse to Phibun Mangsahan – 95km – Medium
CONCLUSIONS & OVERALL COSTS 
RECOMMENDED JOURNALS

16/08/15 – Vientiane to Hin Hoeup – 95km – Easy/Medium

I’d been strangely comfortable & content in my very basic $6 room in Siri 2 Guesthouse despite everything being somewhat musty & the shared bathroom not too clean.
Originally I’d planned to have an few days in Vientiane but find it’s a pretty boring little town nowadays where every day has the feel of a sleepy, languid Sunday & I was glad to be heading off after only one days rest.
The initial 50km was pretty boring, tedious cycling initially through Vientiane’s suburbs before turning onto highway 13 which brought heavier traffic, more urban sprawl & unexceptional scenery. Around the 50km mark the scenery began to take a distinct upturn & for the final 40km became ever more dramatic & enjoyable. A roadside lined with mature trees & vibrant green rice fields gave way to untamed jungle with rolling green hills coming ever closer.
An early pit stop for a fairly decent pork & chicken noodle soup ($1.25) kept me going until Ban Nong Khay where I rested up in a petrol stations A/C mini mart before tackling my first significant hill in Laos. It was around 150 meters climbing on a steady gradient with rewarding panoramic views at the top.
Pushing on over an undulating road with pleasant scenery I soon arrived in Hin Hoeup & began looking for a room. Completely missing the 2 decent guesthouses in town, all I could find was a fairly grotty guesthouse & paid $8.50 for a really basic fan room.

If I’d taken a left before the river (where you see a sign for a petrol station) I’d have come upon 2 guesthouses, one of which appeared to have a decent Wi-Fi signal ($6/night for a fan room). Wandering around at night I came across these guesthouses & had a lovely pork fried rice ($2.50) in one of their restaurants.

17/08/15 - Hin Hoeup to Vang Vieng – 63km – Medium

It’s been an absolutely wonderful days cycling through beautiful countryside topped off by an extremely enjoyable night in Vang Vieng, only slightly spoiled by not choosing a better room to rest up in.
9am & I was showered, coffeed up, loaded & off. It’s an extremely early start for me but Laos is such a sleepy place I suspect earlier nights & earlier starts are going to become the norm.
Straight away I found myself on a good road surface surrounded by dense vegetation, indeed impenetrable jungle encroaching the roadside more often than not. Rolling hills gave way to magnificent mountains as the day wore on, soaring peaks shrouded in mist dominating the background with dense vegetation & thick jungle bridging the gap.
Insect choirs resonated all day & butterflies would appear out of nowhere, dance in front of my eyes & then disappear again. Kamikaze insects kept dive bombing me & were quite painful when taken at speed.
It wasn’t an easy ride as the road undulated all day, the gradients were never severe but occasionally the inclines were prolonged enough to have me laboring in granny gear. Idyllic villages came & went with a tranquil, timeless air to them. Lots of “sabaidii’s “& often the kids would line the roadside to ‘high five” me as I passed by.
Water & soft drinks were available the whole route but other than the ubiquitous noodle soup there wasn’t many food options. I finally gave up looking for an alternative around 25km outside Vang Vieng & stopped for a pretty bland, ordinary noodle soup ($1.80).
Pushing on it was more lovely cycling as Vang Vieng’s rugged karst formations came ever closer. The final 10km was mercifully flat but I’d been watching storm clouds becoming ever more ominous & sure enough 5km out a torrential downpour enveloped me.
My intent had been to have a good look around & find a nice room or bungalow to rest up in for a few days but with torrential rain battering me I instead took the 1st room I looked at. Dokkoun guesthouse isn’t bad with a $7.50 fan room with hot shower but it is noisy with adjacent bars & construction work.
I know Vang Vieng gets a bad press nowadays as being nothing more than a tourist ghetto but I still find it to be a stunningly beautiful spot & relaxing place to hang out, you only have to walk a few minutes to get away from the tourist hoards.
An early evening beer by the riverside (overcast conditions meant no sunset) before heading to the town centre & watching the (somewhat tame) partying unfold as the tubers & kayakers burned off excess energy. Eventually I found a bar with some older travelers & interesting Laos expats & drunk way too many Beerlaos.

19/08/15 – Vang Vieng to Phon Hong – 86km – Medium

Vang Vieng had been a beautiful, enjoyable place to stopover & was another place I had to tear myself away from sooner than I really wanted to.
An early start was wasted when I stopped for a tuna sandwich & in typical Laos fashion it took them 35 minutes to make it. There ensued a lovely, if moderately difficult cycle ride, the reverse of that described on 16 & 17/08/15; Vivid green countryside, hills, jungle & tranquil villages all playing a part.
I wasn’t far outside Hin Hoeup when disaster hit as the chain sprang off the rear cogs & wedged itself between the cassette & spokes. It took me more than 1 hour to free the chain & resulted in getting everything covered in oil. With the time wasted it meant my vague thoughts of making it all the way to Vientiane went out the window.
I decided to get the hill outside Hin Hoeup over & done with & stopover in Phon Hong instead. Once again the hill wasn’t as bad as I’d anticipated, a steady climb to around 150 meters & then a freewheel down to a couple of welcoming A/C mini marts.
Arriving in Phon Hong there’s 3  promising looking guesthouses but at each I was met with “tim, tim, tim” i.e. “full, full, full” I presume there’s a big party or wedding going on & none had any free rooms. Getting a bit desperate I asked some locals who directed me to a place a few km’s South of town. It’s a really grotty, short time dosshouse but at $5 it is cheap & the owners friendly enough. There’s lots of moaning & beds squeaking as the local lassies keep their customers entertained.
A bucket shower, put on a clean shirt & headed out for some beer & food. Almost the 1st thing I encountered is some kids, one of whose chain has slipped off the smallest back cog. It meant once again getting covered in oil, including on my freshly worn shirt. Still the kids (& on looking adults) seemed to get a kick out of the falang fixing their bike.

20/08/15 – Phon Hong to Vientiane – 72km – Easy/Medium

Despite it being a real shithole of a room I slept really well & had to force myself out of bed at 8am. By 10am I was coffeed up & cycled back into town for a breakfast of stewed pork over rice ($1.80). The ride was the reverse of that described on 16/08/15 & was a fairly boring, nondescript cycle ride – a day to just keep the pedals turning & the km’s ticking in.
I’ve felt fairly weak & lethargic all day & perhaps yesterday took more out of me than I realized, certainly a blistering hot day didn’t help. I was glad it was a fairly short distance to cover & I could afford lots of rest stops & water breaks.
Arriving in Vientiane mid afternoon I was really chuffed to find my preferred room in Siri 2 guesthouse was available ($6).

22/08/15 – Vientiane to Thabok – 93km – Easy

Once again Vientiane was just a bit too sleepy & boring for me to want to spend more than a day there & I was glad to be heading off today.
Not for the first time my incompetence surprised even myself & with a simple route out of town; straight for 8 to 10km & then a right turn onto highway 13, I’ve no idea how I managed to get lost on Vientiane’s outskirts. I eventually had to go into a fairly fancy hotel & beg their Wi-Fi password off them to get a fix on my position. My GPS is proving absolutely useless at fixing my location unless I’m logged into a strong Wi-Fi signal.
How many languages can you spot?
Finally reaching the turn off to highway 13 there ensued an easy days riding with a reasonable road surface, flat terrain & fairly light traffic. The 1st half was bland, boring scenery with spindly trees, dry, arid farmland & fairly ugly roadside villages.
There wasn’t much on offer food wise other than the ubiquitous noodle soups but I eventually found a stall selling grilled chicken (Kai yang) with sticky rice ($2.50). It was OK once she’d whisked the flies off & along with a few banana cakes kept me going to Thabok.
The afternoons ride improved as the land became more fertile, trees or bushes began to line the roadside & rolling green hills came into view.
Thong & Mark Guesthouse
Arriving in Thabok around 3.30pm I considered pushing on further but when I checked Thong & Mark Guesthouse I was happy to stop for the night. For $7.50 I got a really nice fan room, hot shower & nice outside sitting area (no Wi-Fi), indeed it’s the nicest room I’ve had in Laos so far.
Thabok has a lovely little area by the riverside with tables & chairs for the public’s use where I enjoyed a few early evening beers. I must have eaten something but whatever it was I didn’t include it in my notes.  

23/08/15 – Thabok to Pak Kading – 95km – Easy

I enjoyed a really comfortable night in Thong & Mark GH & for $7.50 it’s the best value I’ve had in Laos so far. My plan was to have a lie in, late start & do a short 55km ride to Paksan but a local rooster decided I needed to be awoken earlier.
Actually setting off at 9am wasn’t bad as the mist still shrouded the hills & it remained pleasantly cool. Once again the scenery improved as the day worn on & to be honest I hardly noticed the 1st 40km worth as I fell into a daydream about writing a film script; there’s a cyclist who trains in the mountains of Vietnam, goes to Scotland for a race……………, Enough of that! – it was my daydream & very pleasant at the time.
The afternoon’s scenery improved considerably & thankfully snapped me out of my daydream as the road skirted rolling green hills, bushes or trees lined the roadside & views of the Mekong River & Thai mainland came & went.
I’d planned to stop in Paksan but arrived too early to call it a day. There are lots of decent looking guesthouses around especially taking the 1st right as you come into town. Passing a restaurant full of locals I stopped & ordered a noodle soup, it was Ok but at $2.50 it just seems so damn expensive.
Pushing on to Pak Kading there’s a fairly fancy hotel ($15/night) a km or two before the town centre. In town there’s 2 options, I took the 1st option on the right & for $6 got a very basic room with absolutely no frills.
At night I had a fairly good pork fried rice which anywhere out with Laos I would have thought extortionate for $2.50 but by Laos standards that’s reasonable.

24/08/15 – Pak Kading to Vieng Kham – 53km – Easy

Pak Kading was actually a really nice location to stay in with forest clad hills & riverside scenery. It made for a lovely start to my day as the road cut through & then ran alongside a mountain range covered with thick jungle. Tributaries of the Mekong River came & went & the first 10km was as pleasant as any road I’ve been on in Laos so far. As ever on road 13 traffic was fairly light & the road surface was in reasonable condition.
The afternoons ride didn’t have the awesome splendor of the morning’s section but remained pleasant enough with lots of vivid green foliage & occasionally mountains looming directly ahead. Sleepy little villages came & went but the primary impression was how sparsely populated much of Laos is with jungle or scrubland dominating most of the route.
An instant noodle for breakfast & hand of bananas on route meant I arrived in Vieng Kham absolutely starving. Spotting a few stainless steel pans I ordered a pork green curry & it was lovely, indeed the best meal I’ve had since Vientiane.
It was a bit worrying as the rain began to cover the scenery in a blanket of mist. Tomorrow I head into the hills & had hoped for clear weather to enjoy what I hope will be the best scenery of this trip.
There were lots of guesthouses, restaurants & one fairly fancy looking hotel in what is a fairly vibrant little crossroads town. I opted for Khamphone Keokhamphan guesthouse & a decent ensuite fan room for $6, it’s a bit cramped but clean & comfortable with a great Wi-Fi signal (it’s on road 8, 100 meters from road 13).

25/08/15 – Vieng Kham to Na Hin – 43km – Difficult

What an absolutely wonderful days cycling. The best scenery of this trip by far & indeed up there with the best cycle rides I’ve ever done.
“Be careful what you wish for” I thought as I awoke to a blisteringly hot day. Yesterday I’d hoped it wouldn’t be overcast & misty but I didn’t mean blindingly hot. Unsure what services would be available on this route I had a pork curry & rice for breakfast & stopped at the local market where I picked up some spring rolls for the journey. Just as you enter the market there’s a lady who does absolutely wonderful fresh spring rolls, a pack of 3 with crushed peanuts & sweet chili sauce for 60 cents & it’s the best food I’ve had in Laos so far.
Heading off along road 8 & immediately the road passes through dense vegetation with dramatic mountains looming ahead. A small incline straight off & then for 10km it’s fairly easy cycling with only one or two minor inclines.
Idyllic, timeless villages came & went with shouts of “sabaii dii” as I passed by. All day traffic was extremely light but enough to know I could flag down a truck or cart in an extreme emergency.
Around 12 or 14km in there was a 100 to 150 meter climb on a steady & not too fierce gradient but in today’s heat it had me down in granny gear & sweating buckets. By this stage the scenery was becoming ever more dramatic with every turn offering more wonderful views of dense jungle & forest clad mountains, often their summits still shrouded in mist.
Butterflies flirted by the roadside often joined by dragon flies, birdsong & loud insect choirs resonated everywhere & the occasional eagle soared overhead. Dripping sweat, I made it over my first serious hill & enjoyed a wonderful freewheel downhill (steep; make sure your brakes are in order). The following 12km was fairly flat riding through more outstanding scenery.
Around the 27km mark there’s a small village with a few shops, basic restaurants & one guesthouse. It’s a timely point to stock up on water as soon after the real climbing begins.
An initial climb up a long straight road before the road begins to twist & turn its way up the mountainside. A blistering hot day & a serious gradient (10% perhaps) meant I found it extremely hard work but the spectacular views were ample compensation.
Around 5km of climbing to an elevation of 500 meters found me at Hin Poun Viewpoint & rewarded with absolutely stunning panoramic views over Laos rugged, mountainous landscape. I spent a good hour savoring the views, resting up & devouring my spring rolls. Lots of Thai’s & Laos came & went & it was indeed a popular rest spot.
A wonderful freewheel downhill to Na Hin & arriving at 1pm I considered pushing on to Lak Sao. One voice was telling me “it’s too early to stop for the day” whilst another was saying “it’s too bloody hot to tackle another 600 meter climb & why do you want to rush through such spectacular scenery anyway.”
Having a look around the village I checked the rooms in Phamarnview Guesthouse & instantly decided I was stopping here for the night. A lovely room with A/C, fridge, hot shower, TV (Thai/Laos channels only) & good Wi-Fi for $10 was exactly what I was looking for.
Cycling along the main road you hardly notice Na HIn but once you come off the main road & into the village proper it’s actually a vibrant little town with at least a dozen guesthouses, a few restaurants & a small local market, there’s even a few foreigners wandering around. One restaurant attached to a popular guesthouse had an English language menu but seemed extremely expensive by my benchmark.



26/08/15 – Na Hin to Lak Sao – 56km – Difficult

It’s been another fantastic days cycling albeit fairly difficult in parts. A mountainous landscape with dense jungle encroaching right to the roadside, ancient trees, birdsong & insect choirs providing a soundtrack as butterflies danced around me & timeless villages came & went.
The climbing started immediately & I found myself in granny gear before I’d even warmed up. Climbing to around 300 meters I rested up at Viewpoint 2. Like yesterday this viewpoint offered up spectacular views over rugged, mountainous terrain with thick jungle dwarfing the few settlements around.
As I was sitting there a Laos family arrived & set out a picnic. As with most hospitable Laos when they saw me sitting alone they invited me to join them. It was a tempting offer but noting they had scare food for such a large family I declined although the laap & sticky rice looked really tempting.
Unlike yesterday the viewpoint does not sit at the summit & I still had 200 to 300 meters of climbing to endure. Finally at a height of around 500 to 600 meters I reached the top & began a wonderful freewheel downhill. Once again it was a steep descent & I was glad my brakes were fully operational.
The road descends to an idyllic little village which did have one guesthouse, the last guesthouse I was to pass until Lak Sao. Still I was glad I’d decided to stop over in Na Hin yesterday.  More wonderful scenery as I continued on a primarily flat road with only a few steep, if not prolonged undulations, until I hit another significant climb (100 to 150 meters) around 14km outside Lak Sao.
Passing through Tha Bok, a place I’d thought to push onto yesterday & it was a sleepy little village in an absolutely stunning location set on the edge of a river with towering mountains all around but there was no guesthouse & only very basic services. I did manage to get some grilled fish & sticky rice which wasn’t very good but kept me going until Lak Sao.
I was fairly tired by the time I reached Lak Sao & so didn’t waste too much time looking around for a room, quickly settling for a $7.50 fan room with hot shower. It’s Ok but I’m sure there’s better value in town, I just couldn’t be bothered looking around.

A wander around at night & I couldn’t find anything particularly exciting for tea. I finally settled for some grilled chicken & sticky rice along with more delicious fresh spring rolls. Later my plan was to enjoy some beers on my veranda but a persistent hooker wanting to give me a massage (& presumably some “extras”) just wouldn’t take no for an answer & I ended up drinking in my room instead.




27/08/15 – Lak Sao to Mahaxay – 105km (approx) – Medium/Difficult

This was another fantastic days cycling although it was slightly spoiled by bad decision making on my part.
5km outside of Lak Sao the road deteriorates & for the next 30km I was cycling over a surface of sharp stones, potholes & muddy puddles, by far the worst surface I’ve been on in a long time. The 1st 20km is flat before hitting a 200 meter high hill, getting up & over wasn’t easy with a rocky, crappy road surface to contend with.
I was glad to get back to a decent road surface around the 35km mark & thereafter the road undulates all the way to Nakai. The inclines were never excessive but meant forever running up & down the gears & their cumulative effect took its toll on my legs.
The morning’s scenery was fairly ordinary & it wasn’t until I reached Thalang (around the 50km mark) that awesome scenery returned with untamed jungle & majestic mountains once again dominating the countryside.
Passing through Nakai I really should have stopped & looked for a guesthouse, I’ve since read there’s lots of accommodation options off the main road & some decent restaurants in town. Looking back it was obviously a major town & the obvious place to stop overnight but I was trusting Google Maps which had Nakai 12km further on. Suddenly I found myself on the most wonderful freewheel downhill, too late to turn around & climb back to Nakai.
Dropping 500 meters through twisting jungle lined roads with wonderful views of Laos’s mountainous landscapes was a spectacular ride & one I wished I’d saved for tomorrow morning.
Thereafter I spoiled some wonderful scenery as I was racing to find a town & guesthouse before dark. I hate rushing through such wonderful landscapes & really wished I’d stopped in Nakai & saved them for a leisurely cycle tomorrow.
I was getting a bit desperate when I got to Mahaxay at 6pm with darkness descending. There are no guesthouses in the town centre but 2 options 2km before you get into town. I took the 1st I looked at & at $7.50 for a basic bungalow it was OK but there was no key or padlock hasp & no way to secure the room. It meant cycling into town fully loaded where I got lovely pork fried rice & few beers in a very friendly, busy restaurant.
A cycle back to my guesthouse where I found the most god awful karaoke blasting out from the attached restaurant, still it meant I could have a few late (& cold) beers on my balcony.
I really wished I’d stopped in Nakai & not had to rush through the spectacular scenery that the latter half of the day served up but it’s still been a wonderful days cycling & I’ve found a bed (& cold beers) for the night so all’s well.  


28/08/15 – Mahaxay to Thakhek – 40km – Easy

Yet another spectacular days cycling with a flat road & short distance a joy to my weary legs.
I had a good night’s sleep once the karaoke died down just before midnight but awoke to heavy rain. I hadn’t realized last night but the guesthouse was actually in a lovely setting & was a nice place to enjoy my morning coffees as I waited for the rain to abate. Stopping in town for a pork fried rice meant I wasn’t really underway until 11am.
There was a more dramatic, even foreboding aspect to the mountains as mist lay on their slopes & shrouded their peaks. It was lovely countryside to cycle through as soon the roadside jungle gave way to vivid green rice fields. Locals out fishing with ungainly nets manhandled on unsteady wooden frames made for picturesque moments.
High fives & “sabaii dii’s” from the kids as I passed by, lots of thumbs up from motorbike pillion passengers & sometimes a fist pump of encouragement from the younger ladies riding pillion. I took it really easy, partly as my legs were weary but more importantly I wanted to savor my final few km’s of this spellbinding scenery.
A few hills on the way into Thakhek came as a nasty surprise before I cycled around looking for a room. A few false starts including one place that quoted me a rate of $68 “but breakfast is included” she pleaded as I made a hasty about turn. I finally settled on International Guesthouse with a $7.50 A/C room with a mildly warm shower. It’s small & cramped but good value & the 1st time I’ve had BBC on TV since Cambodia.
Thakhek’s a friendly little place (isn’t everywhere in Laos) with pleasant riverside scenery & views across the Mekong to Nakhon Phanom. There are cafes with riverside seating & reasonable priced restaurants (by Laos standards) & it will do me just fine for a much needed day off.




30/08/15 – Thakhek to Savannakhet – 125km (approx) – Medium
MAP of part of today's journey HERE (new road 11 not on Google Maps)
Interesting battle (the gecko lost)
I kicked off the day with a nice breakfast in Song Fang Khong restaurant a place I’d used for most of my meals in Thakhek. They do some great Thai food along with a few Western dishes at very reasonable prices.
Thereafter I embarked on a lovely, peaceful days cycling. Of course the scenery wasn’t as breathtakingly awesome as the “Thakhek Loop” but I’ve cycled through small towns & villages with a snapshot of sleepy, somnolent Laos life, stretches passed through vivid green paddy fields before turning back to the Mekong with its riverside scenery & views of the Thai mainland.
Shouts of “sabaii dii” “hello” or “hi” were never far off and on one occasion an elderly gent said in perfect English “Good morning sir, have a good journey” I was passed before it registered & could only shout back “Good morning & thank you”.
Around 36km into the day I passed through Nong Bok, a fair sized town with 2 guesthouses on the outskirts & one fairly fancy hotel slap bang in the middle. (For a report from a couple who stayed in Ban Nong Bok click HERE). It would make the perfect stopover coming from Savannaket to Thakhek, if like me you don’t enjoy 100+km days. This was the last accommodation I noticed until 16km outside Savannaket where Leena 2 guesthouse & restaurant appeared out of nowhere (& indeed in the middle of nowhere with no other services around).
My route map only covers my journey as far as Keng Kabao as the new road (road 11) is not shown on Google Maps. At Keng Kabao take a left & head for Xeno & after around 12km there’s a right turn onto road 11 which runs all the way to Savannaket.
My plan had been to stay in Keng Kabao but it wasn’t even much of a village with just a few houses scattered around & certainly no guesthouse. My backup plan was to push on to Xeno but coming to road 11 decided I might as well put in the extra km’s to Savannaket.
Arriving around 5.30pm I was too damn tired & hungry to waste time looking for a room & headed straight to Leena Guesthouse. $6 for a clean fan room albeit a bit cramped & lacking furniture will do just fine.
Realizing it was my birthday I had a wander around looking for old bars & restaurants I used to frequent but they are sadly all long gone except Xok Xay restaurant which was still churning out excellent value, tasty food. A few too many Beerlaos in the adjacent night market means I won’t be going anywhere tomorrow.


01/09/15 – Savannaket to Somboon – 75km – Medium

I’m in a place called Somboon according to Google Maps, the local signs & road markers call it by another name which I omitted to take a note of & it’s not a bad place to lay up for a night.
Roadside vendor
All day my legs have felt leaden & devoid of any energy & I do find nowadays often a one day rest up is just enough for fatigue & stiffness to set in. It didn’t help that all day the roads undulated, it was never particularly steep or prolonged inclines but once again their cumulative effect took its toll.
Initially the scenery was pleasant enough passing through thick woodland with views across vivid green rice fields but later in the day it became monotonous with long, straight roads & boring featureless scenery. I’d slip into a daydream only to be awoken by an enthusiastic “sabaii dii” or “hello falang” from some friendly locals.
Around the 32km mark as the road meets up with road 13 there was a fairly vibrant junction town with lots of grilled chicken vendors, a few restaurants & at least 2 guesthouses. This was the last guesthouses I noticed until here in Somboon.
Arriving in Somboon I didn’t know how far it would be until the next guesthouse & decided to stop here for the night. There’s 2 guesthouses on the Northern edge of town, one of which looked extremely nice from the outside ($12/night) & a few very basic looking guesthouses in the town centre. I followed a sign for Kiengphavanh guesthouse located about 1km up a road which passes the provincial Hospital (according to Google Maps) where I got a nice fan room for $6 with a weak but serviceable Wi-Fi signal. Their A/C rooms are $9.
I had a wander into town at night, enjoyed a few Beerlaos & found a lovely little stall selling take away food. A bag of sweet & sour chicken, one of pork green curry & a bag of rice came to $2 in total. I borrowed some bowls from my guesthouse & had an absolute feast along with a few more Beerlaos. 


02/09/15 – Somboom to Pakse – 85km + 85km by bus – Medium

Setting out into torrential rain I stopped for breakfast at the small bus depot in Somboom & had a serious urge to put myself & my bike on a bus to Pakse. It’s the first time this urge has came upon me & it must have been a premonition of what a disastrous day was about to unfold.
Straight boring roads
Fighting off the urge to use a bus I set out & endured 85km of tedious cycling over continuously undulating roads. Long straights with uninspiring scenery & torrential rain just put me in an absolutely miserable mood & when a truck passed with the passenger leaning out the window to give me the finger & an emphatic “fuck you” it just seemed to sum up today’s ride.
It had been a good decision to stop in Somboom last night not only because I found a comfortable guesthouse & good food but also it was 35 to 40km before the next guesthouse near some services appeared.
Baby scorpion in my room. I was a
bit worried where Mum & Dad were
3pm, just as I was thinking I could ease up & enjoy the last 20km to Muang Xhongxedon I got my first puncture of this trip. I couldn’t find any shelter & had to set about changing tubes in bucketing rain only to find the side wall of my tyre was ripped & the new tube just bulged through. Reassembling everything & resecuring my soaked luggage I set about flagging down a lift. My only good luck today was that the first bus I waved down stopped & was happy to take both me & the bike to Pakse; the $4 fare seemed very reasonable.
My riverside terrace
As I helped the conductor maneuver the bike onto the bus & up the aisle the Laos passengers good naturedly made way but a couple of foreigners began grumbling about my filthy, sodden bike being brought inside. I’d had a really bad day & when I shot them a look that contained all today’s frustrations they had the good sense to shut up & go back to playing with their phones.
Frustratingly, although the bus passes through Pakse it doesn’t stop until a bus station 10km outside of town. It meant getting a shared jumbo back into the town centre ($2.50 for me & the bike) which I was amused to see I’d be sharing with the same 2 foreigners who’d began grumbling about my bike going on the bus earlier.
I got him to drop me at Sedone guesthouse with a very basic but roomy $6 fan room & a lovely, peaceful riverside terrace to relax on. Just to top off an absolutely shit day the strap on my sandals has broke & I’ve just noticed a serious crack on the bracket of my back rack.

I cheered myself up with a visit to Jasmine Indian restaurant, downing a good few Beerlaos & devouring a chicken tika massala & garlic naan ($3.20). It’s great when you can get a lovely Indian meal for little more than Laos charge for a basic noodle soup. 



06/09/15 – Pakse to Phibun Mangsahan – 95km – Medium

I had a quick breakfast in Jasmine Indian restaurant before crossing the Laos/Nippon Bridge & then cycling out into typical Laos countryside. My final 40km in Laos was pleasant enough with green fields, trees dotted around, rolling green hills, sleepy villages with colourful local life & lots of “sabaii dii’s” as I passed by.
Arriving at Laos immigration I threw a bit of a tantrum when they charged me $1.25 “overtime fee” I told them they were a bunch of cheating ****’s & cycled through to Thailand. Stamped into Thailand I stopped in Chong Mek for a quick pork fried rice before setting off for Phibun Mangsahan.
Some fairly serious undulations found me continually dropping up & down gears as I passed by pleasant green scenery with views over Lake Sirindhorn much of the time.
There were lots of Thai style resorts (detached or adjoined bungalows in a garden setting) on the way into Phibun & after a quick look around I found a nice room at Phu Luang Resort. $6 fan or $8 A/C rooms with hot shower, good wi-fi, clean, quiet & a very friendly family. It’s located down a lane directly opposite the Big C supermarket & there’s signs directing you from the main road.

At night I bought way too much food & just enough beer from the Big C. 


CONCLUSIONS
My abiding memory of this trip was the 4 days cycling the “Thakhek Loop” & what an absolutely spectacular ride it was – indeed one of the best routes I’ve ever cycled. There were parts of this journey, especially south of Savannaket where undulating roads over fairly barren, boring scenery became tedious & in future I’d consider using a bus between Savannaket & Pakse.
The people have been friendly & hospitable in that laid back, unobtrusive Laos way & it’s great to have calls of “sabaii dii” & “hello falang” ringing in your ear all day. Cheap accommodation ($6 to $8) is available almost everywhere in Laos but often it is “cheap accommodation” with absolutely no frills & at times even $6 seemed too much for a grotty room with stained mattress & bucket shower.
Out with the main towns I found the food was generally bland, unappealing & overpriced in comparison to neighboring countries. Indeed I found instant noodles & tins of tuna more nutritious & certainly better value than eating in budget Laos restaurants.

OVERALL COSTS
I spent $578 in 23 days or $25.13/day. Very approximately my daily costs were;-

Room - $7 to $8
Food - $6 to $7 (see note 1)
Beer - $7
Water - $1.50 to $2 (see note 2)
Misc - $1 to $2 (cigarettes, soft drinks, toiletries etc)
Visa costs - $1.50/ day

NOTE 1 - $6 to $7 is somewhat scrimping on food in Laos which I found expensive & generally unsatisfying. Often I would just fill up with instant noodles, sticky rice & tins of tuna. To eat well in Laos you would need at least $10/day.

NOTE 2 – Water was expensive in Laos & generally cost 62 cents for 1500ml. Cycling in blistering heat it’s easy to race through $2 or more in water every day. 

RECOMENDED JOURNALS
HERE;- A report of cycling the Thakhek Loop
HERE;- David Holmes in Southern Laos
HERE;- Kerry & Martin Riddell rode through Southern Laos at almost the same time as me.